They are Ladakh’s best kept secret.

The Brokpa tribe of Ladakh are a small ethnic group inhabiting four villages between Leh and Kargil. They have Indo-Aryan features and a predominant theory is that they are the last of the descendants of Alexander’s army (though that is fast being debunked).

On my Ladakh trip last year, we were staying in a Brokpa village when I was told that luckily for us, their annual community dance was underway in a nearby village. My guide and I rushed there and I was happy that I sacrificed my sleep for this lovely afternoon.

While I shot hundreds of photos of the Brokpa women and men in their finery, some posing for us (there were many photographers there), and some not, I wasn’t content. I wanted to talk to someone and these two young girls, as if they had heard my thoughts, approached me.

Sonam Dolma and Rigzin Fugu Pa are 15–16 years old. Both spoke reasonably good Hindi and English. Rigzin wants to become a journalist but wasn’t sure if she would be allowed to as girls marry young in their tribe. Sonam wants to become a teacher. They were keenly interested in my camera and wanted to know why I was in their region.

A brief conversation during which I told them to put their foot down and not marry until they are at least 18 years old. That’s when they burst out laughing and I had my click click moment.

Then they posed for me.

Their headgear

Ritu November 18, 2023